We told the kids to say
goodbye to Jean and Paul’s family when they went to bed because we planned to
leave at the crack of dawn before everyone but Jean was up. I don’t
know how it went for the mice, but the best laid plans of Eric and Juliet
turned into seeing Eliza off to the bus, seeing Blaise and Emma Lia off to the
car, seeing Paul got off to work, and seeing if we could still fit in the car
after all we’d eaten.
Then we booked it out of
Albuquerque and drove like the wind to Carlsbad, NM. Last chance to
enter the Caverns on foot is at 2 pm. We entered its yawning mouth
at 1:59.
I haven’t given any
travel advice on this blog (knowing no rational traveler would follow the
advice of people who go from Portland to Montreal via Texas), but here’s some
for free: Drop what you are doing and go to the Carlsbad
Caverns.
It takes about an hour
to walk down to the Big Room, and it was just us four on the way there, winding
down into the mouth of the cave, on under the bat-hung ceiling (we could hear
sleepy chittering), and then around and ever downward along a dimly lit path
past clear pools and giant boulders, glimpsing geodes and ducking through
arches. The Big Room floored me. It’s a millennial
playground for minerals and water. Rocks do things in that Cavern
that you can't imagine when you see them up top of the earth all staid and
proper. Down below us, rock flows like water down walls, builds fairylands
of gnomes and trolls, swims in the air like jellyfish, illuminates the rocky
sky as a chandelier. It ripples like curtains along walls, assumes
the form of a lion’s tail, curls its tendrils above the pools like the coyest
anemone.
I’ll upload some
pictures, but they are the palest of reflections of the place. I
came away transformed. It was like drinking beauty from a fire
hydrant.
-Juliet






I have always wanted to go to Carlbad! Now i think you have convinced Danny too! Awesome travel blog, very very entertaining. I miss you!!
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